‘Ludi Naturae’, meaning “games of nature” was the title for Iris van Herpen’s SS18 couture collection. Stemming from astonishing results created from individual things in nature thanks in-part to their special qualities, the inspiration was based on examining natural and manmade landscapes from an aerial perspective as seen in the intricate work of Thierry Bornier, Andy Yeung and many others.
ʻI zoomed out to look at the earthʼs skin, trying to find the forces behind the forms. Looking from this perspective, I felt inspired by the patterns of chaos and order, nature and civilization blending into infinite hybrids. ʼ
The result was a blossoming and vivid collection of delicate pieces full of organic lines, which created an almost cerebral effect, all in murmured hues found in nature; nudes, plums, blues, yellows, greens and black. There was also some major innovation in pushing the idea of couture design into the future thanks to a process titled ‘Foliage’, where leaf-like patterns are 3D printed (as thin as .8mm) onto tulle creating an airy flourish on many of the garments. Along with 3D printing, ʻData Dustʼ was created, in which parametric patterns are computationally distorted, foam-lifted, laser-cut and then heat-bonded onto an invisible silk tulle, create radiant glitches.