The garden of the Musée Rodin, coddled in muslin, inclusive of a black and white checkerboard floor hosted Christian Dior’s Spring 2018 Couture show. Massive body sculptures were hung from the mirrored ceiling. Pre-show, the setting alone was enough to allude to Maria Grazia Chiuri’s nod to Surrealism for Spring 2018.
Maria Grazia Chiuri’s feminist direction led her inspiration research to Leonor Fini- an avant-garde artist once chosen by Christian Dior to exhibit in a gallery. Fini purposed extravagant clothing and headdresses to produce her identity. Her image was representative of regality and power. In correlating these two notions, Maria Grazia Chiuri spoke to this theory, “Surrealism speaks about dreams and the unconscious, and often about women’s bodies. It is very close to fashion.”
Chiuri fabricated the collection primarily in black and white, alluding to the colors of the subconscious. Whilst the palette of the collection remained understated, the couture remained couture. Bold graphics, optical illusions, directional prints spoke to elements of the art genre. Long, tailored coat dresses displayed restraint with a semblance of elegance. Cloudy ecru chiffon, smocking elements, feathered butterflies decorated the unlimited offering of dresses. Masks accented both trouser suits and gowns.
In relating back to Surrealism through feminism, and a moment in the past, Maria Grazia Chiuri’s collection never felt more present. Perhaps it is history repeating itself, or perhaps we have been there all along?